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Purchasing Your Dachshund Essentials

In This Chapter

If you love shopping, this chapter is for you. And even if you don’t, no need to despair. Many pet catalogs and Internet sites are at your service! This chapter is all about pet supplies — what you and your Dachshund need and what you don’t necessarily need but think would be awfully fun to have. Every dog needs a few basics, and Dachshunds require a few special supplies. And then there are the luxuries. If you can afford them, go for it. If you prefer to keep your dog budget in check, your Dachshund won’t mind. All she really wants is attention from you (along with exercise and a few good meals every day, of course).


You may be getting a little nervous. You’ve browsed over all the main topics in this chapter, and you’re thinking, “How will I afford all this stuff?” You don’t have to have everything on Day 1 (for more on the first day, see Chapter The First Day: What to Do and What to Expect). Food and a den are all you really need at first. Grooming tools and toys should follow soon after, though. You can probably spread out your new dog purchases over a month or two, but do budget for them because your Dachshund is worth it. You’ve made a commitment to give her the best care, which doesn’t mean ignoring her needs in order to save a few pennies. It means spending what’s necessary to ensure her good health and happiness. You’d do the same for a child, wouldn’t you?

Every Dog Needs a Den!

One of the most important pet supplies you’ll buy — and should buy — before bringing your new Dachshund home is a crate. Personally, I don’t like the word “crate.” It sounds like something that should contain cartons of milk or oranges from Florida, not a living, breathing, beloved pet. It also conjures up images of cruel confinement, which is exactly what a lot of people imagine when they’re told they ought to buy them.
Truth is, a “crate” will become your Dachshund’s second best friend (after you, of course). Dogs are den animals, and they feel most secure when they have an enclosed, familiar place to retire to or to escape the fray of family life once in a while. So, I call crates dens instead, because as far as Dachshunds are concerned, that’s exactly what they are. (Dens are also invaluable housetraining tools.)


Never leave a brand-new puppy in her den for more than two or three hours, even at night. Older puppies can last about four hours. If you work all day, someone should come home at lunch to give your pet a potty break. Even adult dogs, although they can last eight or nine hours in a den, prefer not to spend all day in confinement. If you’re gone every day for nine or ten hours, consider hiring a dog walker or pet sitter to do the lunch duty.

Why dens are kind

Do you ever wish you could be magically transported to a luxurious bubble bath or steam room or peaceful meditation retreat, far from the shrieks of small children, ringing telephones, and malfunctioning appliances? Your Dachshund feels a little like that sometimes. Well, maybe not exactly. No one can say for certain how a dog feels (although some people are pretty sure they can tell, from time to time). But dogs do get overwhelmed, seem to suffer from stress, and, although social creatures, sometimes prefer to be alone. But your Dachshund won’t take a bubble bath at will. Instead, when a dog is feeling overcome by commotion or simply needs some downtime, nothing feels better than retiring into the safety and comfort of the good ol’ den.


Let your pet spend some time each day in her den, even when you’re home, so that she learns that den doesn’t equal you going away. She may dislike it at first, but after it becomes familiar, her den will surely be her favorite spot. Unless your dog is sick and needs your help, let the den truly be hers by never putting your hand in there. The less intrusive you are when it comes to your Dachshund’s space, the more she’ll feel secure in that space. 

After you teach your Dachshund that her den is home sweet home (see Chapter The First Day: What to Do and What to Expect for more tips), you’ll discover other ways the den can benefit both you and your Dachshund. For instance, the den will help your Dachshund learn to avoid accidents. Dogs don’t like to soil where they sleep, so as long as you don’t wait too long, your puppy usually will refrain from relieving herself until you take her outside. (Turn to Chapter Teaching Your Dachshund the House Rules for more on housetraining.)
Also, if you have a little beggar under your table, your dog can spend time in her den when your family has dinner. It’s a lot easier to keep the kids from slipping your Dachshund people food when you don’t have a Dachshund in the kitchen, nosing around. Putting her in her den at dinnertime is kind to your pet, because it keeps her healthier and won’t encourage bad begging habits.

Selecting your den

You can purchase a crate or kennel for your Dachshund at most pet stores or even at discount-type department stores. You can also find a huge variety of pet housing on the Internet, ranging in price from $15.00 or $20.00 to almost $100.00, depending on the brand, the design, and the store.
When purchasing a Dachshund den, look for a sturdy, well-ventilated plastic or metal crate with an easy-open door (easy for you to open, not your Dachshund). You want to find a size just big enough that your Dachshund can stand, sit, lie down, and turn around comfortably, but you don’t want one so huge that she can relieve herself in one corner and sleep in another.


Because Dachshunds never get too big, get a crate that’s big enough to house her as an adult. If it looks like too much space for your puppy, you can put a small box or toy or pillow in the den to fill up the extra space. Some crates come with dividers so you can “grow” the den as your puppy grows.

When you have a den picked out, fold up a blanket or buy a nice, soft cushion or pad for the bottom, and your Dachsie paradise is all set.


Plastic dens may not be particularly lovely pieces of furniture (although some brands look attractive), but to most Dachshunds, plastic dens feel more secure and safe on the inside than open-wire kennels, which don’t resemble dens very closely. But wire kennels can work just fine if you drape a blanket over the top and three sides to give your pet a better sense of security. Also, avoid making your dog stand on a wire grate; the surface is uncomfortable, and puppies can snag their toes. Cover the bottom of the den with something soft — a cushion, pad, pillow, or folded blanket — and wash the material often. 

A companion to dens: Dog beds for Dachsies

If you’re talking aesthetics, dog beds (see Figure 8-1 for an example) are much nicer looking than crates and kennels. Some Dachshunds love them — especially the beds that are more enclosed. (Many Dachshunds, especially Minis, like those cushy, semi-enclosed cat beds.) If you want to (and can) get yours used to a bed, that’s fine. You can buy some beautiful ones — even furniture-quality wooden beds sized just for small dogs.
Figure 8-1: Some Dachshunds, like these longhairs, like to call dog beds home. (Photo courtesy of John and Joyce Kane.)


But even if your dog sleeps in a dog bed, she’ll still appreciate and use a den. You’ll appreciate it, too, when you suddenly need to confine your Dachshund for her own safety, when housetraining becomes a nightmare, or when you find that your Dachshund won’t come out from under the kitchen chair because it’s the closest thing to an enclosed den she can find.

Shop ’Til You Drop: A Pet Store Checklist

A den is a must. But what other supplies do you need to properly care for a Dachshund? In this section, I cover all the options — the must-haves and the why-nots. Take the following lists to the pet store (or log on to your favorite online pet store) and have fun!

Collecting the “must-haves”

Following is your list of pet supply staples. These items are pretty much non-negotiable. Your Dachshund needs them. You can spend a little or a lot on, say, a leash or a food bowl. You can even buy most of the supplies at garage sales or borrow them from friends who no longer have dogs. But you need to find the following items, one way or the other:

Food: Buy as good a food as you can afford (see the later section “Kibble, Kibble, Everywhere . . .” for more about what to feed your Dachshund).

Leash (or lead): Dachshunds must be kept on a leash when near traffic or in an unenclosed area. Keep your pet safe. You don’t need to spend a lot. Four-foot lengths are good for new puppies. When your dog gets older, a 6-foot length is perfect. Choose leather or nylon, whichever you prefer.

Collar or harness: A leash isn’t much good without a color or harness. Harnesses are nice for Dachshunds because you won’t risk pulling on your pet’s neck. Don’t leave a harness on all the time, though. It can rub away at your dog’s coat. Collars give you a little more control, and some dogs seem to prefer them.


A collar for identification tags and a harness just for walks is the perfect combination!

– Identification tags: You probably already know that your short-legged hound dog shouldn’t go wandering around the neighborhood, but just in case your little rascal digs out of your backyard or dashes through an open door and gets away from you, an identification tag can drastically improve your Dachsie’s chances for a safe return home. Most pet stores have forms you can fill out to order ID tags, or you can look in magazines and pet catalogs.


Collars and ID tags can fall off, break off, or get lost. Or perhaps your Dachshund could escape on that one day you took off her collar, “just for a minute.” For these reasons, a microchip or tattoo may be a better ID tool. Some animal shelters and rescue groups require that your dog have one of these (see Chapter Rescue Me! Adopting a Dachshund). Microchips encoded with your dog’s contact information are implanted under her skin, usually in her neck. Vets and shelters with scanners can scan found dogs to see if they contain chips. Tattoos identify your dog with a code on her ear, abdomen, or thigh. Anyone who finds your dog can contact a national database to find out where she belongs. Talk to your vet about the best identification method for your Dachshund.

Food and water bowls: Any style bowl will do, as long as it’s unbreakable and heavy enough so that your Dachshund doesn’t keep knocking it over when she tries to eat. Weighted bowls, ceramic bowls, and metal bowls are good choices. Avoid plastic bowls, which can harbor bacteria and even lead to skin infections.

Shampoo: Even if you don’t use it very often (you don’t need to bathe a smooth hair unless she gets really dirty), you should have shampoo on hand for those times when you need it. Use a shampoo made for pets, not for people. People shampoo is harsh and can irritate your pet’s skin and eyes. (See Chapter Healthy Dachshund 101 for more on grooming.)

Toothbrush and toothpaste: It may seem silly to you, but brushing your dog’s teeth is essential for her good health. Brushing keeps tartar buildup at bay (excessive tartar buildup must be removed by a vet, often under general anaesthetic, which is always a risk). Tooth decay and bacteria in your dog’s mouth can lead to heart disease and other serious health problems — especially as your Dachshund ages.

Look for a toothbrush and toothpaste made just for dogs. People toothpaste isn’t good for your Dachshund. A people toothbrush may work, but dog toothbrushes are longer with more compact, sturdier bristles, and they’re angled in a way that makes brushing easier.


You can also buy pet toothbrushes that slip over your finger. For that matter, a gauze pad wrapped around your finger makes an effective toothbrush, and most dogs don’t mind you rubbing their teeth this way — especially if you get them used to the process while they’re puppies.

– Nail clippers: A dog with long nails risks a foot injury. Long nails on hard surfaces spread the footpads too far apart. They also make walking more difficult. Keep your dog’s nails nicely trimmed with a pair of clippers. Ask your vet to show you how to clip (or have it done professionally once every four to eight weeks). Buy clippers made for dogs, not for humans. Human nail clippers can seriously injure your dog and probably aren’t strong enough to cut your dog’s nails anyway.

Brush and comb: Your dog’s specific grooming needs depend on what coat she has (see the section “Choosing Tools for the Well-Groomed Dachshund” later in this chapter), but a good natural bristle brush and a steel comb will work for all coat types.

Pet gate: A pet gate is a must-have if you have rooms where your Dachshund isn’t allowed or stairs you want to keep her from descending or climbing. Baby gates, pet gates — same thing.


Garage sales are good sources for buying gates, because people often sell their baby gates when their kids get older.

Toys: Dachshunds (like girls) just want to have fun! (I can say that because I’m a girl.) A few toys are a must-have, even if they’re homemade (see the section “Toys for Playtime!” later in this chapter).

Pet stain and odor remover: Accidents happen, but if your dog smells a previous mistake on your carpet, accidents will happen again and again. Many pet products will truly remove the scent of a past indiscretion. Take advantage and make housetraining easier. Ask your local pet store employee to recommend a brand for your Dachshund.


Most Dachshund vets and breeders generally don’t recommend vitamin supplements. Supplements can throw off the nutritional balance of your pet’s diet. Unless your vet specifically prescribes something for your Dachshund, stick with the healthy, complete, nutritionally balanced food recommended by your vet, as well as occasional healthy treats. If your Dachshund has a health problem, a holistic vet may recommend supplements like glucosamine for joint health or probiotics for improved digestion.

Giving the “why-nots” a whirl

Beyond the must-haves are the “why-nots” — the pet supplies that are more luxury than necessity. If you want to spend the money, why not? Some of the items in the following list satisfy some pets more than others, and some are, admittedly, just for your own amusement and pleasure. But that’s worth something, too!

Gourmet dog treats: Fancy gourmet dog treats from dedicated dog bakeries are now widely available. If you live in a big city, you may live near a dog bakery. Here in Iowa, we have three different dog treat bakers at the local farmer’s market! Browse around and pick out a few special treats for your Dachshund.


Don’t overfeed your Dachsie, even if the treats are healthy. Many gourmet treats are all-natural and made of human-grade ingredients, but that isn’t an excuse to let your Dachshund binge. A calorie is a calorie, no matter the source. One treat every day or so should be fine, but you may want to consider decreasing the kibble allowance on those days just slightly.

Puppy training pads: Some people like to use pre-scented puppy pads that encourage a Dachshund to go on them rather than the carpet. Not every dog responds to these pads, but if the pads work for your puppy, they can help a lot with housetraining.

Retractable leash: This is a very long leash that retracts into a plastic case with a handle. Retractable leashes are perfect for walks or hikes in parks, forests, or other natural areas where your Dachshund will love to go sniffing about. You can keep her safe while she explores.

A retractable leash isn’t for everyday use, however, because it isn’t good for teaching your dog to heel (see Chapter Putting Your Dachshund through Basic Training). And be sure to follow the directions when you retract so the leash doesn’t whip around and hit you. Safety first!


Don’t bring your Dachshund to the vet on a retractable leash. There are so many distractions at the vet’s office, and many dogs wander too far from their owners and too close to others on this kind of leash.

Dog bed and other dog furniture: Yes, companies make dog furniture. Little chairs, little beds, little fainting couches — all very lovely and impressive, and all pretty expensive. But what better way to make your home a Dachshund haven? Of course, if you drop a bundle on a fancy bedroom set for your Dachshund, be prepared. She may ignore it and prefer to curl up on the people couch instead. After all, that’s where you sit!

Fancy clothing: A Dachshund in clothes? Sure! Doggy fashion is big these days — from collars, bows, and sweaters to jackets, coats, and boots — and boutique-y pet stores are full of options. Dress your dog to match her unique personality. Behold Figure 8-2 for an example! 

Figure 8-2: For some this is high fashion, and for others it’s campy fun. (Photo courtesy of Vicky Cosgrove.)


If you live in a very cold climate, a few articles of clothing are actually more of a necessity than a luxury. Dog sweaters, jackets, or coats can keep your Dachshund warm on cold winter walks. Dog boots keep ice crystals and rock salt from getting between your Dachshund’s footpads (they also protect your pet from sharp rocks and hot surfaces on summer hikes). The question is, can you get your dog to wear them? If yours won’t, always wipe your Dachshund’s paws with a warm cloth or even a baby wipe after winter walks. Even when it isn’t snowing, rock salt and ice crystal residue can get between your dog’s paws. 

Choosing Tools for the Well-Groomed Dachshund

If you have a smooth Dachshund, you don’t need much in the way of grooming tools. Longhairs and wirehairs require a little more — especially if you decide to do all the dog grooming yourself (see Chapter The Long and Short of Dachshund Varieties for more on coat type). You can talk to your vet or a local groomer for tips on which grooming tools are best for your dog; for now, this section provides a short list of tools for you. (For more info on how to groom your Dachshund, see Chapter Healthy Dachshund 101.)

Smooth grooming tools

Grooming a smooth Dachshund may be easy, but you still need a few tools of the trade:

– Natural-bristled brush

– Hound mitt — which has bristles sewn onto the palm — for pulling out shed hair

– Spray oil made for dog coats — if you want to make your Dachshund’s coat look extra shiny (a common practice for show dogs)

You can also use a little baby oil and your hands — but just a drop or two

– Moisturizing shampoo for smooths with dry skin

Longhaired grooming tools

Grooming a longhaired Dachshund is mostly a matter of keeping all those tiny little tangles from becoming great big mats. It takes a little skill and practice, but mostly it takes a commitment to regular grooming — preferably a comb-through every day.


Several books give good instructions on grooming longhaired Dachshunds for the show ring or for pet homes, but nothing beats watching someone who knows the ropes demonstrate for you. Your breeder may be the best person to show you; a professional dog groomer may also be willing to illustrate the basics. You can also talk to breeders at a dog show for tips and demonstrations.

Professionals may recommend additional tools, but here are the basic tools for grooming a longhair:

Wirehaired grooming tools


If you don’t care about keeping your dog looking like a show dog, a wirehaired Dachsie can get by with an electric clipper shave whenever her wiry coat gets out of hand. If you want your dog to look ready for the show ring, however, you need a few other tools — including your thumb and forefinger, which you’ll use periodically to pluck the longer hairs from your Dachshund’s coat (it doesn’t hurt her), or a stripping knife.

Just as with longhairs, you’ll learn a lot by watching a pro demonstrate for you. (See Chapter Healthy Dachshund 101 for more information about grooming the wirehaired Dachshund.) The list of wirehair grooming tools is short, but the grooming process is long:
  • Natural bristle brush
  • Steel comb
  • Stripping knife (optional — you can also use your fingers)
  • Scissors for neatening stray hairs
  • Clippers with a variety of blades, including a #10

Toys for Playtime!

Dachshunds, like all dogs, need toys. Play is a puppy’s work and the means by which she learns about the world. But not all toys are created equal. The following list presents the best ones you should buy (or make) for your Dachshund:

– Something very hard and appealing to chew on, like a hard rubber Kong toy. The Kongs are great. They have holes you can fill with dog treats or other tantalizing things; your Dachshund may work all day at trying to get the treat out of the Kong.

– Something with more “give” to chew on, like a Nylabone or Gummabone chew toy.

– Something soft, like a made-for-dogs fleece toy. Sure, your Dachshund probably will shred it and pull out all the stuffing, but she’ll have a whole lot of fun doing it!


Be very careful with dolls or stuffed animals with plastic parts or eyes that can come off and pose a choking hazard.

– A ball or other object to chase, if your Dachshund likes to chase or retrieve.


Tug of war with a rope toy may sound like fun, but you should avoid playing this game with your Dachshund. The sharp back-andforth movement can injure her back — even resulting in paralysis. Plus, some experts believe tug-of-war games can lead to possession aggression, which can become a major behavioral problem that’s hard to correct. Stick to ball chasing.

Kibble, Kibble, Everywhere . . .

In the long run, dog food will turn out to be your most expensive pet supply, so you don’t want to waste your money. But you do want to choose the best food that you can afford. Choosing the right food for your Dachshund may seem pretty tricky. So many brands! Should you choose a natural food? A meat-based or a grain-based food? And what about making your own dog food at home?
The publicity you hear and read about dog diets and pet food safety is indeed overwhelming, and eventually you’ll have to make a decision. I can tell you what I’ve learned after several years of research and writing many articles on the subject — which I do in the following sections — but in the end, the choice is up to you because the experts don’t always agree. The best you can do is find a food that satisfies all the following requirements:
  • Your dog likes it.
  • You can afford it.
  • Your vet recommends it.
  • It is nutritionally complete.

Which commercial food is best?

If you choose to feed your dog dry kibble — the easiest option — the number of choices is astounding. Corn-based, meat-based, hypoallergenic, natural, meat meal, fresh meat, by-products, no meat, human-grade ingredients — how do you pick? Well, your first job is to learn how to read the labels. The following list explains how:

– Look for kibble that lists meat or meat meal as the first ingredient, and preferably also as the second and/or third ingredient. Fresh meat and meat meal are both high-quality protein sources.


Meat by-products have protein and also things dogs in the wild may eat (organs, bone, skin, cartilage), but they also may contain ingredients that aren’t good for your dog. You really don’t know what you’re getting, and many (but not all) vets discourage the use of food with by-products. Talk to your vet if this issue concerns you.

Some people are enthusiastic about vegetarian diets for dogs, but others believe this diet is unnatural and even unsafe for dogs. I haven’t researched the subject enough to recommend it.

Avoid grain-based foods. Although whole grains in moderation are probably just fine for your dog (some people don’t think they are), highly processed grains or foods made mostly with grains may not contain adequate amounts of digestible protein. Some people also believe that grains cause skin allergies in many dogs.

Look for words you understand, like “blueberries” and “salmon oil” and “kelp.” Plenty of chemical names should give you pause. Although not all chemicals are bad for your dog (and many added vitamins sound like chemicals), it makes sense to me that dogs (and people, too) are designed to eat foods as close to their natural state as possible.

Look for a food that’s naturally preserved with vitamins E and C rather than chemical preservatives. The verdict is still out on the effects of chemical preservatives, but naturally preserved food is so widely available that I don’t see any reason to take a chance.

If you find a food advertised as being “nutritionally complete,” it must include a statement on the label that says it’s appropriate for the maintenance and/or growth stages (in other words, for adult dogs and/or for puppies). If your food of choice doesn’t say that, it hasn’t passed the test and isn’t meant to be a dog’s complete diet.


Even better is a statement that the food has been subjected to feeding trials by the dog food company and has been proven to be nutritionally adequate.

If you’re feeling confused, here’s some general advice: Find a good, quality kibble, naturally preserved, with meat listed first or second on the ingredient list, and that your dog likes. The higher priced foods probably are better and actually may be a bargain, because your Dachshund won’t have to eat as much of them to get the same amount of nutrition. Plus, cheap foods tend to make for bulky, stinky poop. Premium foods make your Dachshund’s waste much nicer to handle. When in doubt, ask your vet to recommend a food she prefers for her own dogs.

Popular beliefs about food variety

Perhaps you’ve heard that you should never switch your dog’s food, or if you do, you should do so gradually. Perhaps you’ve also heard that your dog doesn’t require any food but her own brand of kibble and that she should never be given anything else.
Not everyone agrees with this point of view. Dogs don’t eat the same thing every day in the wild. And, personally, I find it hard to believe that the occasional addition of healthy people food — especially meat, because very few brands of kibble contain the proportion of meat nature intended for dogs to eat — will do any Dachshund harm. Sure, if you overdo the treats, you could encourage obesity; the trick is to keep the calories down and the nutritional density up. For example, avoid giving all the chicken skin or fat trimmings from your steak to your Dachshund; give him some of the meat instead. Regarding switching your dog’s food gradually, yes, any change in diet should be done gradually. Dogs with sensitive systems are more likely to react adversely to dietary changes than normal, healthy dogs.


Most breeders and vets don’t recommend canned food over kibble for several reasons. It’s more expensive, it’s less nutritionally dense, and some think it can promote tooth decay. But it does taste better, and some picky eaters prefer a spoonful of high-quality canned food mixed in with their kibble. As long as the types of food you give your Dachshund are high in quality, you’ll be fine (especially if you brush your Dachshund’s teeth every day).

Organic, raw, frozen . . . does it matter?

Lately, a lot of information is being passed around about organic diets, raw-food diets, and frozen prepared raw diets. Holistic pet food is trendy, but a lot of the hype comes from some pretty sensible ideas — namely that rather than chemicals, a dog’s diet should contain food in a form as close as possible to the things a dog would eat in the wild. It may be worthwhile, although no studies have shown this yet.
The problem is, organic food is much more expensive, although people who choose organic foods for themselves and their families are often happy to pay the higher price.
Many people worry that raw-food diets — whether they’re homemade or frozen prepared meals that you can buy in pet stores (they keep them in freezers) — put dogs at risk of food poisoning. Vets are deeply divided on this subject, so you should talk to your vet before you make a decision on this type of diet. Many Dachshunds with horrible skin allergies have improved dramatically on rawfood diets, but for others, it doesn’t seem to make any difference — it could even make them sick. Only you and your vet can decide what’s right for your Dachsie.

What about homemade diets?

Considering making your dog’s food at home out of natural, healthy ingredients? Sounds appealing, yes, but it’s time consuming. Of course, if you have one 6-pound Miniature Dachshund, you’ll spend a lot less time making her food than if you have a house full of Standards.


The only problem with homemade diets is that if they aren’t nutritionally complete, your dog can suffer. For example, a dog fed only meat will eventually experience severe health problems. More subtle nutritional deficiencies can happen, too, if your dog misses any essential nutrients.

Getting into the finer points of the homemade diet is beyond the scope of this book, but I can highly recommend a couple books on the subject that will tell you exactly what to do if you want to make your dog’s food at home. These books are also filled with great general health information on dogs:

The Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, by Wendy Volhard and Kerry Brown, DVM (Howell Book House)

Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, by Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, PhD, and Susan Hubble Pitcairn (Rodale Press, Inc.)

People food: The good, the bad, and the ugly

People food: Some of it is good, some of it is bad, and some of it is downright dangerous for your Dachshund. If it will help you to remember which is which, keep a copy of Table 8-1 on your refrigerator.
Table 8-1                                           The Scoop on People Food
Good People Food
Bad People Food
Baby carrots, broccoli florets
Hot dogs or any cured meat
Small pieces of green beans
Any candy (especially chocolate)
Fresh or frozen peas
Spoiled food of any kind
Plain yogurt
Sweetened yogurt
Low-fat cottage cheese
High-fat cheese
High-salt food
Small pieces of fruit
Grapes or raisins
Small amounts of olive, canola, or flaxseed oil
Butter or lard
Oatmeal, brown rice, and whole grains
White flour products
Large raw bones (if your vet approves)
Cooked bones (they can splinter)
Fresh, low-fat meat (minced)
High-fat meat


No matter how much your Dachsie begs, never give her a taste of that chocolate bar or chocolate chip cookie. Chocolate can cause dehydration and diarrhea that’s difficult to treat and deadly if not caught in time. Dogs must also avoid onions, grapes, and raisins, which can all cause toxic reactions.

by Eve Adamson

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