Mastering Good Manners and Basic Commands
Adjusting to a collar and lead
Teaching basic commands
Attending puppy classes and day care
Contacting the professionals
A Few Things to Keep in Mind While Training
Tip
Here are a few general tips that you can apply to all the training ideas in this chapter:
– Always stop on a positive note. If your dog isn’t “getting” the new lesson, go back to a command she knows how to do. If your dog always sits promptly, end the lesson with a sit. Give a treat and a lot of praise, and go back to training when you’ve both rested.
– Don’t be afraid to try commands because you don’t think they work. With practice and plenty of treats, you can train your Bully to obey your commands.
– During training time, stuff your pockets full of treats, and always have treats on hand for rewards. You don’t want to ask your Bully to do something and then go find the treats. He may forget why he’s getting the treat.
– Think of a release word to let your dog know that he can stop whatever you had him doing. Make your release word happy and short. Many people say “Okay” or “All right.” Whatever you use, be consistent. Don’t say “Okay” one day and “That’Technical Stuff fine” the next.
Following the Leader: Lead and Collar Training
Collaring the culprit
Remember
Attach your dog’s rabies tag and identification tag on his collar. If you lose him, the ID tag may assist in bringing him home.
Being gentle but firm with the lead
Warning!
Be patient. Don’t fight with your dog. Just remember to have a pocketful of treats and to set aside a lot of time. When you start getting impatient, stop any lesson instead of continuing a battle of wills with your pup.
Knowing the Basic Commands
I have a “haunch” you can teach your Bully to sit
1. Take a treat, and show it to your dog.
2. Tell him to sit.
3. Move your hand back over his head.
He follows your hand and the treat back, tipping his nose up and sinking down on his haunches.
Tip
If you hold the treat too far above your dog’s head, your Bully stands up and tries to reach the goody or stands on his hind legs. This error in technique may teach your dog the wrong command or to put his paws up on you for the treat. You want him to sit, so keep your hand low.
4. Praise him, and give him the treat.
5. Repeat this process several times.
6. Then end the session.
– Easily snap on his lead instead of trying to catch him as he bounces with delight at the prospect of a walk.
– Check his ears for dirt.
– Lift a paw and clean off mud. This command comes in handy when bringing in your Bulldog from the rain.
– Put his food bowl down. Having your dog work for his supper never hurts. Food is an excellent motivator.
Come to me, my Bully!
1. Call your puppy in a happy, excited tone of voice.
2. Back away from him.
3. Odds are good he bounds after you.
4. Pet and praise him, and give him a treat.
– At mealtimes, call your Bully. His reward is his bowl of food.
– After he’s used to a collar and lead, work with him on the lead. Again, call him in a happy tone, and run backward away from him. When he comes, reward him.
– As you enjoy walks together, and your Bully is beginning to understand the command Come, call him when he is distracted, sniffing a bug, or just wandering in the grass. Say his name; call him; and give the lead a gentle tug. Don’t haul, jerk, or drag him. Encourage him with your voice and with treats.
1. Leave the lead or a long rope attached to the collar.
2. Call your pup.
3. If he comes, praise him, and let him go back to whatever he was doing.
You don’t want him to think that when he comes to you, playtime is over. Coming to you is just a break and a chance for a cookie.
4. If he doesn’t come at first, pick up the trailing lead; give a gentle tug, and repeat the command.
After he comes, praise him, and let him go back to what he was doing.
Warning!
Don’t ever call your dog for unpleasant news. (If you want to punish him, go to where he is.) Don’t call him to give him medicine. Don’t call him for a bath. Don’t call him because you’ve just found one of your good shoes that he’s partially eaten. If he is digging a hole in the middle of your prized petunias, call him, and when he comes, pat and praise him. Don’t punish him because he’s destroyed your flowers. Punishing at this point turns into punishing him for coming. Praise him for obeying, and replant the flowers later.
Teaching the Down command
Warning!
Some methods require some form of physical manipulation, like pulling or pushing, and with a Bulldog, the struggle may turn into a contest of wills and strength.
- Start with your dog in a Sit.
- Show your dog the treat.
- Move your hand slowly down in front of your dog and slightly away, giving the Down command.
- With luck, your dog slides into a Down.
- Make sure to praise and reward him.
Teaching the Stay command
- Attach the lead to your dog’s collar.
- Have your Bully sit on your left side.
- Hold the lead in your right hand.
- Lean over, and extend your left hand and arm in front of your dog’s nose, with your palm facing the dog.
- Give the command Stay.
- Step in front of your dog.
- Return to your dog’s side.
- Praise, and give treats.
Tip
Don’t rush this process, and always return to his side before you praise him. Some dogs are wonderful at the Stay until you move; then they think that they can move as well.
Combining the Down and Stay commands
- Attach the lead to your dog’s collar.
- Have your Bully Down on your left side.
- Hold the lead in your right hand.
- Lean over, and extend your left hand and arm in front of your dog’s nose, with your palm facing the dog.
- Give the command Stay.
- Step in front of your dog.
- Return to your dog’s side.
- Praise, and give treats.
– A dog who obeys these commands is less likely to be kenneled when company arrives or when he may otherwise be in the way.
– If you’re frantically trying to get Thanksgiving dinner ready (or any other dinner, for that matter) and on the table, Down your dog in the corner and tell him to Stay. You can work without worrying about tripping over the dog.
– If you’re bringing in the groceries from the car (and sometimes in the rain), and your Bully is happy to see you, but she is making you trip, say hello to your pup and then give the Down and Stay commands. Finish bringing in the groceries. Make sure to reward her for obeying the command.
– If your dog runs across the road, you may not want to use the Come command. Having her come to you means that she has to cross the road again, putting her in danger of getting hit. But you don’t want her to get even farther away. Give the Down command, and your well-trained Bully drops to the ground. Tell her to Stay; then you can cross the road at a safer time, and snap the lead on your dog’s collar.
In an age of fenced yards and leashed walks, the danger of a dog’s running out into traffic is less, but accidents happen. Your dog can slip out an open door, and even your stocky Bulldog may reach the street before anyone can catch her.
Wait for me!
– If your Bully loses a treat under the table or couch.
My dogs frequently knock dog biscuits under furniture and can’t reach them. I can, but not with the dogs’ heads between me and the furniture. If you’re trying to retrieve the dog biscuit from under the couch, your dog discovers that if he doesn’t wait, he doesn’t get the treat. Give him a firm but gentle push to get him out of the way and say, “Wait.” Retrieve the cookie, and tell him “Okay.”
– If you’re trying to leave the house.
Use the Wait so your dog doesn’t go through the door with you. If your dog’s on a lead, say “Wait” as you go through a door, restraining him so he has to wait for you to go through the door first.
Tip
Some trainers argue that putting your dog on a Sit or a Down–Stay accomplishes the same goal as Wait. They’re right! But sometimes I just prefer a less formal command.
Leave It!
Tip
I can’t live without this command. The Leave It command can save your sock or shoe from being chewed; and if your dog knows the Leave It command, when the day comes that your Bully picks up something dead and disgusting, you won’t have to pry her jaws open; she willingly gives the carcass up without a fight. Give the command, and she spits it out by herself. Remember to give her a treat.
One of my females once tried to bring a dead chipmunk into the house. Fortunately, I saw what it was and gave her the Leave It command before she made it indoors. She dropped the chipmunk and then followed me inside for her treat. On a less gruesome note, I quickly trained my male dog to leave another dog’s stuffed toy in exchange for a dog biscuit. He was happy, and the toy lasted longer because he didn’t have a chance to disembowel it.
Mixing up your training
Conquering Common Behavior Problems
I beg you: No begging!
Technical Stuff
Canines are hard-wired to return to a spot where they receive food. Researchers discovered that when a wolf caught a rabbit at a specific spot, he revisited that spot dozens of times in the hope of catching another rabbit. Similarly, you can create a monster in your own home. Give your Bully a bit of food from the table once, and he will return to the scene again and again.
Remember
Begging isn’t limited to the table. If you have snacks while you’re watching television, your Bully wants his share. Sharing a handful of popcorn is okay, but after you start, your Bully will always be there, so think about the repercussions of sharing before you do it.
Jumping isn’t always joyful
Warning!
Even if you never mind your Bulldog jumping up on you, your visitors may not find the habit quite so endearing. Bulldogs are solid, heavy dogs, and your dog can knock over a child or an older person and cause injury.
Tip
If you’re expecting company, tell your guests ahead of time to ignore your dog and pet him only when he’s in a Sit position. Pretty soon your dog realizes that jumping is a totally worthless activity.
Digging up the yard
Tip
If you’re simultaneously trying to preserve your lawn and have a dog, and your particular puppy does enjoy some excavation time, consider giving your dog his own digging spot. Think of the spot as a sandbox for dogs. Mark off an area with low boards; add some sand or dirt; and introduce the spot to your dog. You can make the introduction by burying dog biscuits just under the sand’s surface or putting a few drops of bacon grease on “the digging spot.” Before long, your dog figures out that the box makes a great digging place.
Keeping the peace: No barking!
Figuring out the distractions
– Animals: If your backyard has rabbits, squirrels, or other furry friends, maybe the distraction of other animals is what is making your dog bark. Give your dog something to do, and he’s less apt to bark at activity on either side of your fence.
– Boredom: If your dog is left out in your yard for extended periods of time, he may be barking because he’s bored. Give him something to concentrate on, and when he’s finished, he may take a long nap. Ideally, don’t leave your Bulldog outside so long that he has to resort to barking to entertain himself.
– People: If he’s barking at people, consider a solid fence. Dogs aren’t as apt to bark at what they can’t see. If children pass by your home, make sure that they aren’t teasing your dog through the fence.
– Separation anxiety: If your dog barks when he’s left alone in the house, he may have separation anxiety. Leave him with a Kong, a heavy rubber toy stuffed with peanut butter or cheese. (For more information on Kongs, see Chapter Preparing for Your Bulldog.)
Videotapes of solitary dogs have shown that they’re the most anxious during the first 10 to 15 minutes of being left alone. If your dog has an occupier during those minutes, chances are he’ll be fine the rest of the time.
– Traffic: Your Bully may like to bark at passing traffic. Certain cars make noises that can make your Bully bark wildly. You can manage this noise by looking for ways to incorporate sound insulation into your house. For example, thick fabric drapes help reduce noise more than blinds or thin drapes do.
– Weather: Don’t leave your dog outside during weather extremes. Your Bully may be telling you that he is too hot or too cold.
Barking in the house
- Go through your normal schedule of getting ready to leave the house.
- Go out the door.
- Count to ten.
- Go back in you house.
- Leave again.
- Gradually extend the amount of time you’re gone.
- Return if your dog starts barking; otherwise, extend the time.
Remember
This process is time consuming. The procedure may take you days or even weeks to train your dog not to bark when he’s alone. But believe me — your neighbors will thank you.
Finding Help
Don’t hesitate to get help if you feel that you need it, whether the problem is minor or major. The sooner you get help, the more likely the problem can be treated and corrected or kept from escalating into a bigger problem. Discover the ways in which you can get help to ensure that your Bulldog is a well-mannered companion.
Clicker trainingClicker training was first used with sea mammals. Handlers used metal clickers to communicate. You can’t put a collar and lead on a dolphin! The system involves positive reinforcement and shaping of an animal’s behavior. Every time the animal performs an action approximating what the handler is looking for, the handler clicks and treats. The animal soon associates the click with getting a goody and offers behaviors in an attempt to hear that click. The book Dog Training For Dummies contains information on this and other types of training. |
Puppy classes
Day care
If you discover that your Bulldog’s behavior problems relate to your puppy’s lack of play time, consider doggy day care two or three times a week. Day-care centers provide supervised play for your dog and give your puppy something to do when you’re not at home. Day care is another way to socialize your Bully with other people and animals to alleviate barking and behavioral problems.
Obedience classes
Professional trainers
Doggie Psychology 101: Hiring an animal behaviorist
– American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB): For information on the AVSAB, go to www.avma.org/av.sab. The AVSAB is a group of veterinarians who share an interest in understanding, teaching, and treating behavior problems in animals. The AVSAB is committed to preserving and improving the human–animal bond wherever it exists. Members range from those who are casually interested in animal behavior to board-certified specialists.
The AVSAB has two levels of membership. The first level is open only to veterinarians. The affiliate membership is open to others who have been approved by the executive. Affiliate members must have a PhD in animal behavior or a closely related field and be currently active in research and/or practice of applied animal behavior.
– International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC): The IAABC is yet another organization you can contact. Its Web site is www.iaabc.org. The IAABC’s goal is conveyed in its mission statement: “To assist companion animals and educate their humans to interrupt the cycle of inappropriate punishment, rejection, and euthanasia of animals with resolvable behavior problems.”
Lynn Hoover, president of IAABC, notes that members have diverse backgrounds, but all have “the knowledge, skill, and ethics base” needed to work with both dogs and their families and to collaborate with the family veterinarian.
– Animal Behavior Society: Visit www.animalbehavior.org, the site for the Animal Behavior Society. This group is a professional organization for the study of animal behavior. The society recognizes that “animal behaviorists can be educated in a variety of disciplines, including psychology, biology, zoology, or animal science. A professional applied animal behaviorist has demonstrated expertise in the principles of animal behavior, in the research methods of animal behavior, in the application of animal behavior, principles to applied behavior problems, and in the dissemination of knowledge about animal behavior through teaching and research.”
Classifying behaviorists
Associate Applied Animal Behaviorist
Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist
A certified Applied Animal Behaviorist must have a doctoral degree from an accredited college or university in a biological or behavioral science, with an emphasis in animal behavior. The degree must include five years of professional experience or a doctorate from an accredited college or university in veterinary medicine, plus two years in a university-approved residency in animal behavior. Three additional years of professional experience in applied animal behavior are also required. Any of these degrees must include the same coursework requirements as the Associate Applied Animal Behaviorist degree.